Date: 20180530
Time: 9:35 – 15:10
Distance: 21.4 km
Stay: The Old Ship Hotel, Padstow
Walk
Today a more relaxed route. The sting is in the beginning, in the first 4-5 kilometers. After that it is not too bad.
I start on time because at the end I have to catch the ferry from Rock to Padstow and I want to be there in time (otherwise it will cost me a taxi).
It is raining, so that is not so good.
I start together with three people that I have already encountered before the last few days, both in hotels and on the path. It is a couple from Germany (from the neighborhood of Nürnberg) and an English friend. I walk faster and lose sight of them after a while. I expect to see them again in the hotel or pub tonight.
Before I start my walk, I first walk through Port Isaac. The town is famous because it the Doc Martin series is filmed here. The hotel where I slept last night is in the series the school building (which it used to be). Port Isaac mainly has many small and narrow streets.
Although the sting is in the beginning, it is not that bad. The hills are not that high anymore, so every climb and descent is a lot shorter. There are a number of steep slopes to take, but I can manage that. However, I have to be careful because everything is wet. Especially on rocky stretches that means it is slippery.
After about 5 kilometer I reach Port Quin, a hamlet by the sea. Normally here in the parking lot one can get something to drink (from an old Citroen HZ), but today they are closed because of the beautiful weather. Too bad, I really would have liked a cup of coffee.
The good news is that the worst climbing is over. Not that it is all flat now, but there are not many height differences anymore.
And then you walk on a not too wide path, along a cliff, and then there are about 10 cows that want to pass you. Going back does not make sense, then you get stuck on a stile. So, crawl against the edge as much as possible and stay as still as possible. The cows have a look at this, they do not trust it completely. Then they pass by one by one. One of the last is a calf and that needs more time before it dares to pass. But in the end it takes a sprint and shoots past. The cow behind it looks at me for a moment as if to say: how dare you against a calf …
All in all, this resulted in some nice close-ups of the cows.
Soon after, Polzeath comes into view, a seaside resort. Despite the bad weather, there is still plenty to do on the beach and in the sea. At least there is coffee here, at a beach bar.
At Polzeath and later at Rock and Padstow, there are huge sand plains. Here they do have real beaches.
After Polzeath it continues via a mainly flat route to Rock, via the dunes, the beach and along the last hill of today.
I’m lucky, when I get to the beach at Rock, a ferry arrives and I can board immediately. They use two ferries today. When we arrive at the Padstow side, it becomes clear why. There is a huge queue waiting.
When I arrived in Padstow, I see that the three people I started with this morning were on the same ferry. In our hotel (we have the same hotel again) I have a chat with them and there I hear that they have taken a short cut. That explains why they have caught up with me.
In Padstow it is very busy. I do not have to get bored here during my rest day tomorrow.
Weather
Well, today finally came an end at the good walking weather. It rained. Fortunately not very hard. From the beginning there was a constant light rain. Later in the day there were dry periods, but the rain kept coming back again.
I had put on my raincoat for and although it was very hot, I kept it on all day.
In the end I was soaking wet, but just like last time only partly because of the rain. Today, especially at the beginning, I had many pieces where I walked along very narrow paths that were largely overgrown with vegetation. That made me the most wet, all that vegetation was soaking wet and so was I in no time.
Lyric of the day
And of course because of the weather, today again a rain song text. One more rainy day by Deep Purple:
Changes, visible changes
Sky looking so forlorn
It looks like the world’s been born
On one more rainy day
Trying to see the sunlight
My heart’s crying out loud
I try to see through the clouds
On one more rainy day
One more rainy day
Once again my mind is grey
This is what a rainy day can do
One more rainy day
One more rainy day
Sun starts shining on through
New day a day with you
It’s strange what sun can do
On one more rainy day
One more rainy day
Once again my mind is grey
This is what a rainy day can do
One more rainy day
One more rainy day
Before I started the official walk today, I first went into Tintagel. The old post office is mentioned everywhere and the church. There are also the King Arthur’s Great Halls. Everything in Tintagel has a connection with King Arthur (even if only in the name). You would almost imagine yourself in the Middle Ages, were it not that it is all very touristy.
Then on to the church, which lies on top of the cliffs, a little away from the village. Of course with associated cemetery. There is a special old font in the church. After having taken the necessary pictures, I lit a candle so that the rest of my trip will also go smoothly…
Obviously steep as I have come to expect from the Coast Path. This was immediately after Trebarwith Strand, the last civilization before the end point of today. Unfortunately, this was a bit too early for a break, I had just started walking.
After all the ups and downs I finally arrived in Port Gaverne, a hamlet just next to Port Isaac. However, the height differences were not done yet. I had one last climb to get to Port Isaac and one descent.
In the end I was very early done today. Partly because I left on time, but also because the route today was not very long. Time for a pint at the Golden Lion.
Rain was predicted later in the day. Indeed, official weather warnings were in force regarding thunderstorms and flooding. But these are normally very local and the chance that you are affected is not that big.
Since I spend the night in Tintagel and everything is dominated by the Middle Ages, today a song by a group that makes medieval music (both acoustic and a combination of rock with traditional instruments). Today Spielmannsfluch by In Extremo:
Before I get there, however, I first have to cross the highest cliff in Cornwall. The ascent is alternately easy (read not too steep) and less easy (so steep). In the end I’ll manage it up to the 223 meter high top of High Cliff (original name).
After this tour de force it mainly goes down with some steep slopes before I am in Boscastle. There are a lot of people in Boscastle, which is probably because it is a bank holiday in England today. At least I manage to get a spot in the beer garden to drink a pint.
After I have also replenished my water supply (which is going very fast today with the warm weather), it goes on to Tintagel. It also immediately goes up again. After that it keeps going up and down with a few steep descents and rises. Eventually Tintagel Castle comes into view, or at least the remains of it. I left this morning extra early because I want to pay a visit. This visit also brings a number of altitude meters with it because the castle and everything that goes with it lies on two hills. But that does not stop me, I can handle the few extra meters.
Summer weather today, sunny the whole day. There were clouds to see, but they were further away. Actually too hot to trudge up steep slopes. Fortunately, there was a nice sea breeze, which gave a bit of cooling.
Today a more relaxed route. Although there were a few climbs at the last section. Basically everything that a South West Coast Path walk should have:
Something more about those rocks. The rocks are about 300 million years old and made up of the sedimentary rocks sandstone and shale (mud and other minerals). They were formed in the Carboniferous Period. Over the years the rock layers have become squashed and folded by the movement of the earth’s crust (the tectonic plates) to produce almost vertical strata in some places.
And again perfect walking weather. Cloudy, occasionally sunny and a nice temperature. Although there were occasionally dark clouds, it has remained completely dry.
This is my 10th walking day on the South West Coast Path. And a heavy stage is up for today. All documentation that I have (see 
The first part is very relaxed, at least after the initial climb. I walk without too many height differences on top off the cliffs and through meadows. On top of the world.
Then I am suddenly caught up. That is special, usually I am the one who passes people. It is someone who runs the part that I am walking today. I thought I was sweating a lot, but he is soaking wet from head to toe. When we talk for a moment, there is a constant stream of fluid from his cap. Am I glad that I can walk.
I was not planning to walk to Morwenstow, the route of today is long enough. However, there is a diversion because part of the Coast Path is impassable. This diversion is via Morwenstow. So if I am already there, then it is time for coffee at the Rectory Farm Tearoom.
And again I come across a hut, a very small hut this time, Hawker’s Hut. This hut was made of driftwood by a local clergyman. And again to get inspiration for poems (or to smoke opium). I wonder which one it was…
Before I start my walk today, I first go down to the harbor in Clovelly. They are moving someone which means everything on sleds (cabinets, washing machine, everything) and down to the harbor . There is a road behind the hotel near the harbor.
I also take this road and I return to the Coast Path near the Clovelly Visitor Center, after a long climb. I could have saved that climb, based on my overnight stay I could have used the Landrover service. But hey, no patience and so … Once on the Coast Path, a fairly relaxed walk follows through Clovelly Court Gardens with a hiding place called Angel’s Wings and a viewpoint to Blackchurch Rock.
Then it starts going down a few times and back up again. The first time to the beach at Blackchurch Rock. I try to get a good picture of it (with the holes visible), but I can not. For that I would have to go into the sea and I don’t want to right now.
After a few drops and rises, another very relaxed part follows past fields along the cliffs up to Hartland Point. Here it is time for a break and coffee at The Hartland Point Outdoor Café where food and drinks are sold. They also have a terrace and fortunately they have a few parasols open so that I can sit dry (see weather below). They are open every day and certainly with this weather I think that’s very good service. On the other hand, half the terrace is full of walkers, so rain or shine, there is always something going on here.
I only need to walk 4 – 5 kilometers, but these are heavy it says in the SWCP flyer. And they are right, the rest of the route is alternately laid back and then it goes down and back up again, up to 5 times.
In the end the last climb is done and I see lying beneath me Hartland Quay. That’s where I need to be, that’s my stay for tonight.
After a relaxed part immediately after Westward Ho! it is really going up and down again and up and down … So a typical Coast Path route. All in all it is manageable. What really helps is that after the last big climb the descent is very gradual. That descent goes via the Hobby Drive, a road to Clovelly which used to be a toll road. The road is called that way because building the road was a hobby for Sir James Hamlyn Williams.
Halfway through the Hobby Drive I meet a lot of people at a viewpoint. One of those people is Davey, whom I also encountered in Ilfracombe a few days ago. We walk the Hobby Drive together for some time, until Davey wants to drop the pace again.
Clovelly waits at the end of the Hobby Drive. Clovelly lies against the hill and has a very steep main street of boulders. Motorized traffic is banned and all transport is through sledges or donkeys. My hotel is halfway up the hill and I am well on time. Even earlier than my bags. So I will have a local beer while waiting.
The Coast Path follows the Tarka Trail until Bideford. This means long straights that tend to become a bit boring. In Bideford it is time for coffee, at the White Hart Inn. While drinking coffee, I hear a song that I have not heard for ages, Son of my Father by Chickory Tip. Without knowing the whole text, I decide that this will be the lyrics of the day.
After Bideford, the path changes into a more Coast Path like path, along the river via narrow tracks to Appledore (this sounds like a place from Harry Potter). Appledore was and is known for its shipbuilding. This used to be done in the Richmond Dry Dock. That fell into disuse when a new, modern and covered dry dock was put into use. The Richmond Dry Dock is named after
Richmond Bay (in Prince Edward Island, Canada). There ships were built to a seaworthy level, crammed with wood and then sent to England. Here the ships were then finished and the wood was used for further shipbuilding.
On the quay in Appledore I can just see the ferry going to Instow. I could have taken that too, but walking is more fun.
After this welcome break I continue. Around the corner is a large church with a huge graveyard. The number of graves against the hill is amazingly large. I think they have never cleaned up a grave here.
On the edge of Appledore, almost at the end of Irsha street (a street full of nice colorful cottages) I come across a nice terrace. Since the view here is very nice and I still have time enough, I decide to go for another pint, a Dark Horse at the Beaver Inn.
After Braunton I go via a cycle / walking path towards Barnstaple. On the first stretch I first pass a nature reserve and then an army base. The route follows an old railway line and the river, the Taw, to Barnstaple. During this part I meet quite a few other walkers and also cyclists.
When leaving Barnstaple, there is the possibility to take an alternative route avoiding walking along the busy road. This alternative, however, goes along a very large construction site and does not seem much better. I just follow the standard route. The part along the busy road is not too bad and is very short.
I continue via the Tarka Trail, again along the river Taw, only now on the other side and in the other direction. This part is possibly even more straight than the first stretch of today. It is also a pretty boring part. I can see where I walked this morning (on the other side of the river). Halfway I pass a converted train station, Fremington Station. There is now a tea house. Unfortunately no beer …
A bit before Instow the path goes more towards the river through a dune-like landscape and fields. That changes into a more industrial, but discarded, area. Via a cricket field I reach Instow. I’m there around 2:20 PM, a little less than 5 hours for a bit more than 20 kilometers, including a break. That is more or less my normal walking pace.
October 25th 2016: The Coast Path is temporarily diverted on Horsey Island south of Braunton (Grid Ref: SS 470 330) due to the sea eroding a large hole in the path making it unsafe. As a result the path is closed and diversion is in place following the toll road (public footpath).
