Date: 20180522
Time: 9:50 – 16:45
Distance: 20.3 km
Stay: Culloden House, Westward Ho!
Walk
Before I leave, I take a look around the church with the accompanying graveyard that lies alongside the B & B. This was the original church of Instow. According to my landlady Instow used to be here against the hill and it was later moved to the coast.
Today the Coast Path goes via Bideford and Appledore to Westward Ho !. That exclamation mark belongs to the name, Westward Ho! is named after the eponymous novel by Charles Kingsley.
The Coast Path follows the Tarka Trail until Bideford. This means long straights that tend to become a bit boring. In Bideford it is time for coffee, at the White Hart Inn. While drinking coffee, I hear a song that I have not heard for ages, Son of my Father by Chickory Tip. Without knowing the whole text, I decide that this will be the lyrics of the day.
In Bideford there is also a statue of Charles Kingsley.
After Bideford, the path changes into a more Coast Path like path, along the river via narrow tracks to Appledore (this sounds like a place from Harry Potter). Appledore was and is known for its shipbuilding. This used to be done in the Richmond Dry Dock. That fell into disuse when a new, modern and covered dry dock was put into use. The Richmond Dry Dock is named after
Richmond Bay (in Prince Edward Island, Canada). There ships were built to a seaworthy level, crammed with wood and then sent to England. Here the ships were then finished and the wood was used for further shipbuilding.
Today the Richmond Dry Dock is waiting for someone who can and wants to do something fun with it, see here.
On the quay in Appledore I can just see the ferry going to Instow. I could have taken that too, but walking is more fun.
It’s time for a pint, a Golden Pig at The Seagate at the quay in Appledore. Fortunately, there is no shortage of locally brewed beers here in England. Here too there are many local and regional breweries, each with a variety of beers.
After this welcome break I continue. Around the corner is a large church with a huge graveyard. The number of graves against the hill is amazingly large. I think they have never cleaned up a grave here.
On the edge of Appledore, almost at the end of Irsha street (a street full of nice colorful cottages) I come across a nice terrace. Since the view here is very nice and I still have time enough, I decide to go for another pint, a Dark Horse at the Beaver Inn.
The advantage of a relaxed route is that you can take a long break …
After that, however, I do some serious walking. I come back to the coast and the Coast Path follows the coast through the dunes to Westward Ho!.
Weather
Again nice walking weather, mostly cloudy but later in the afternoon the sun came through. A pleasant temperature, not too hot.
Lyric of the day
As indicated above, today’s lyrics are from Chickory Tip, Son of my Father:
Mama said to me we gotta have your life run right
Off you got to school
Where you can learn the rules there right
Be just like your dad lad
Follow in the same tradition
Never go astray and stay an honest lovin’ son
Son of my father
Molded, I was folded, I was preform-packed
Son of my father
Commanded, I was branded in a plastic vac’
Surrounded and confounded by statistic facts
Tried to let me in but I jumped out of my skin in time
I saw through the lies and read the alibi signs
So I left my home, I’m really on my own at last
Left the trodden path and separated from the past
Son of my father
Changing, rearranging into someone new
Son of my father
Collecting and selecting independent views
Knowing and I’m showing that a change is due
Son of my father
Molded, I was folded, I was preform-packed
Son of my father
Commanded, I was branded in a plastic vac’
Surrounded and confounded by statistic facts
After Braunton I go via a cycle / walking path towards Barnstaple. On the first stretch I first pass a nature reserve and then an army base. The route follows an old railway line and the river, the Taw, to Barnstaple. During this part I meet quite a few other walkers and also cyclists.
When leaving Barnstaple, there is the possibility to take an alternative route avoiding walking along the busy road. This alternative, however, goes along a very large construction site and does not seem much better. I just follow the standard route. The part along the busy road is not too bad and is very short.
I continue via the Tarka Trail, again along the river Taw, only now on the other side and in the other direction. This part is possibly even more straight than the first stretch of today. It is also a pretty boring part. I can see where I walked this morning (on the other side of the river). Halfway I pass a converted train station, Fremington Station. There is now a tea house. Unfortunately no beer …
A bit before Instow the path goes more towards the river through a dune-like landscape and fields. That changes into a more industrial, but discarded, area. Via a cricket field I reach Instow. I’m there around 2:20 PM, a little less than 5 hours for a bit more than 20 kilometers, including a break. That is more or less my normal walking pace.
October 25th 2016: The Coast Path is temporarily diverted on Horsey Island south of Braunton (Grid Ref: SS 470 330) due to the sea eroding a large hole in the path making it unsafe. As a result the path is closed and diversion is in place following the toll road (public footpath).
Up to Ilfracombe the route is not too hard, not too much climbing and fantastic views. I cross a campsite among other things. Also in this first part there are plenty of possibilities to get something to drink (or eat).
Ilfracombe is full of tourists. Still, I find a quiet terrace (at the back of the restaurant) with a nice view of the sea.
The part after Ilfracombe is quite heavy again. Not because of the altitude, but because of the many falls and rises. Eventually I arrive at Morte Point, a rock formation that protrudes into the sea. From here the beaches of Woolacombe are clearly visible. It is not very far anymore to Woolacombe. That last part, however, is still quite hard because it is going up steeply before I am on the road and then it goes down again.
At the end, however, the Red Barn Inn (very very red) waits with a nice selection of beers …
Today it was again great weather, sunny and sometimes even a bit too hot. Somewhat the same as yesterday, only slightly warmer. No jacket needed today.
Today starts well, I save myself the first climb by going up the 
After that the path goes along the hills and along the sea. There are a lot of walkers here. But the crowd is getting less after a while. I arrive at the Valley of Rocks. Here I go up to enjoy the view. Then the path continues past Lee Abbey. The path now runs along a road, but there is an alternative route more closely to the coast and through the meadows. Of course I choose this.
At the bottom, there is a sign indicating the directions to America, Russia, Iceland and New Zealand. Here I meet the three hikers again and we have a chat and the some jokes about the signpost. Then I continue, they have a slightly slower pace. Later I will meet the three musketeers again.
After quite some time I arrive at Heddon Valley. Here I first walk to Heddon Beach. There is an ancient lime kiln on the beach. When I am back on the path, I meet the three musketeers again, they are resting on a bench. We have another chat and then I continue to the Hunter’s Inn. I follow the river, the Heddon, and after a small detour (the path to the inn is closed because a big tree has fallen down or is cut down) I arrive at my resting place.
Eventually it goes all the way down again. I cross a stream and after that it goes up steeply, as usual, to Great Hangman this time. Fortunately, the steep stretch does not last too long and the rest of the climb to Great Hangman goes much more gradually. Great Hangman is the highest sea cliff in England and thus also the highest point on the South West Coast Path (318m).
The descent is pretty heavy. I feel my left knee protesting. In the end, however, we all end up in Combe Martin. Now quickly to the B & B for a shower and then into the village for something to eat.
Worthy Toll House, a beautifully designed toll house that has been preserved very well.
Culbone Church, one of the smallest churches in England (10.5 x 3.6 meters) where regular services are still being held. Around the church is an old cemetery. This looks great.
Sugerloaf hill, a small diversion with a very nice view. Here I have a break to eat and drink and to enjoy the view.
Rhododendrons, to the yellow gorse, the purple Rhododendron joins at one point. Not an occasional shrub, but whole mountain slopes. A great view with all those colors.
Foreland, here at Devon’s northernmost point there is a lighthouse and of course I walk there. Further on there is also a possibility to walk to the top of the hill. From here there is a great view in all directions.
Then back to the beginning of the path. Here I ask another hiker if he wants to take a picture of me and the sculpture. This is more or less obligatory when you walk the South West Coast Path 🙂
Once back on the path, it goes up a little further to North Hill Viewpoint. Here I have a nice view. Just a pity that it is very cloudy.
At the top, I meet a Danish woman who is listening carefully. She makes recordings of the tides and is looking for the best point to do so. We chat for a while and after I walk a bit further to the rocky point, I go down through the bushes on a very steep path. The path is so narrow and overgrown that I regularly doubt whether there is a path at all. But every time a route shows as I continue.
Eventually I end up on the South West Coast Path again. The next part is a relaxed track along a small stream. At Bossington I cross the stream and it’s time for a break at the famous 
Because I am in Bossington well in time, I decide to do an extra walk inland to Allerford and Selworthy. This is also a very nice route with nice views on the hills in this area. Both villages are very small and picturesque with a number of nice cottages. In Selworthy I walk to the church with a very old cemetery. Most tombstones are hardly or not legible anymore.
On the outskirts of Bossington, at Bossington Farm, I buy a bottle of natural apple juice at the side of the road. My water starts to run out and natural apple juice seems a nice replacement to me. It actually is and the next few miles I empty the bottle.
The next miles go through the Marsch, an area that regularly floods at high tides. This is actually a little boring. However, there are some impressive dead trees. Eventually I come all the way to the coast and there the path goes over stones. This is not nice walking and I am happy when I can go up to the road.
Just a little bit further along the road and I reach Porlock Weir. I’m looking for 
After I checked out, I walked to Paddington station. Fortunately that was only a short walk (with my heavy bags). I arrived at the station well in time. My Super Off Peak ticket was only valid after 10 am, so I let the first train to Taunton pass. I therefore had ample time to observe the people at the busy station. Travelers in a state varying from relaxed to blind panic.
The steam train, 
When I arrive in Minehead, I have a short break at the Turntable cafe for another local beer and something small to eat. They have a train turntable here (hence the name of the cafe). Unfortunately they have already used it today and are now closing down. Still nice to see. It is also nice to see how all the volunteers work for their railway, from the conductor and the driver to the station chiefs. For most of them it is not just a hobby, but very serious.
After this arrival in style, I have to walk one more kilometer with my heavy bags (I gradually am beginning to see the advantage of wheels on one’s suitcase). Tonight I will be staying in 
At The Old Ship Aground I can work on this blog on the terrace with a nice IPA after a well-deserved shower.
Everything goes smoothly after that. I have to wait a little more than an hour in Brussels. Then the Eurostar takes me to London in time (just after 14:00 local time).
Because I am in London well in time, I decide to go for a walk. It is nice walking weather, sunny, dry and warm.
For that I have to walk 23 kilometers.
There is a lot of (re)building going on in London. I try to walk as much as possible through back alleys and to avoid the tourist routes. That results in a number of nice pictures.
