Date: 20180610
Time: 9:15 – 16:45
Distance: 21.8 km
Stay: Rockridge House, Porthcurno
Walk
After a good breakfast at the golf club, I first go to Cape Cornwall. Until about 200 years ago, Cape Cornwall was thought to be the westernmost point of Cornwall. Only when the Ordnance Survey charted everything, it became clear that this was not the case, but that this is Dr. Syntax’s Head at Land’s End.
There used to be a tin mine on Cape Cornwall and the chimney is still there as an aid to naval navigation (in the old days).
In 1987 Cape Cornwall, in honor of the 100th anniversary of Heinz, was purchased by Heinz (the ketchup and the baked beans guys) and donated to the National Trust. Probably as a thank you for the many baked beans served at the English breakfast…
On Cape Cornwall you can also find the ruins of a small medieval chapel, St Helen’s Oratory.
After I walked around Cape Cornwall, it continues along the Coast Path. The path is no longer as uneven as the last two days, but later in the day there will be some climbing parts.
I do, however, encounter many caves today, both in the sea and on land. It looks like cavemen country here. Some of these caves are closed, but a large number are open. Since I do not feel like dabbing around in the dark, I walk past them all 🙂
After a while I arrive at Sennen Cove. Here is a large beach and a lot of people are surfing. For me it’s time for coffee at the Beach Bar. Then I take a look at the harbor, with the capstan house, and walk to the coastguard lookout at Pedn-men-du.
A capstan house was used to pull boats up the slipway.
After Sennen Cove I arrive at the busiest part of the Coast Path, between Sennen Cove and Land’s End. It is not that bad today, despite the fact that it is Sunday. The coast is beautiful here and you have beautiful views.
What is also striking is that there is indeed a different kind of people walking here (who mainly come by car). Normally I greet everyone and that is mutual, good morning, good afternoon, hello, hi. I do that now too, but I only rarely get a response. Many people do not even look up.
When I’ve seen the first and last house at Land’s End, it’s time to celebrate this milestone with a pint. I do that at the Land’s End Bar & Restaurant. I’m obviously looking for a beer that I haven’t had yet, a New Zealand beer this time, Silvetip from the Beerd Brewery. Unfortunately, they only have a little more than half a pint. My luck, they are out of beer… But not to worry, I’ll do with half a pint this time. I still have to walk a few miles.
After Land’s End there is a small stretch that is still a little bit busy, then after that the peace returns.
The piece from Sennen Cove to Land’s End and a bit further I did with Ada and the kids in 2009 as part of a circular walk. Land’s End became more touristy during this time than it already was. The bench at the first and last house is gone and there is now a fence. A shame!
It is still some work to get to Porthcurno. Once there, I first go to the Cable Station Inn for a pint. Then to the B & B for a shower.
Weather
Fortunately, today it was not as hot as yesterday. It started out sunny, but later on, clouds were passing. Pleasant temperature and dry. What more does a walker want?
Lyric of the day
Because of the large number of caves today, we go on the experimental / psychedelic tour. Today I have chosen a song text that is quite different. It is in any case the song with the longest title of the group. I found the best explanation about the meaning of the text on the blog of Pink Floyd Lyrics.
It is Several Species Of Small Furry Animals Gathered Together In A Cave And Grooving With A Pict by Pink Floyd:
Aye an’ a bit of Mackeral settler rack and ruin
ran it doon by the haim, ‘ma place
well I slapped me and I slapped it doon in the side
and I cried, cried, cried.
The fear a fallen down taken never back the raize and then Craig Marion,
get out wi’ ye Claymore out mi pocket a’ ran doon, doon the middin stain
picking the fiery horde that was fallen around ma feet.
Never he cried, never shall it ye get me alive
ye rotten hound of the burnie crew. Well I snatched fer the blade O my
Claymore cut and thrust and I fell doon before him round his feet.
Aye! A roar he cried frae the bottom of his heart that I would nay fall
but as dead, dead as ‘a can be by his feet; de ya ken?
And the wind cried Mary.
Thank you.
