Date: 20180703
Time: 9:15 – 15:30
Distance: 21.2 km
Stay: Brixham House, Brixham
Walk
The day begins, as often happens on this side of England, with a ferry crossing, over the Dart this time. There are several possibilities, but I opt for the lower ferry and not the passenger ferry. The only difference is the starting point, they arrive at the same point on the Kingswear side.
The lower ferry actually consists of two ferries. They look a bit like our ferry between Baarlo and Steyl, but not motorized. They have an extra boat attached to the side for the propulsion. The nice thing about this extra boat is that it turns every time the ferry leaves. The prow is attached to the ferry in one place and around that point the boat turns so that it moves forward when we go to the other side. Both ferries basically go simultaneously and pass each other somewhere in the middle of the Dart.
When I arrived in Kingswear I pick up the Coast Path again and I walk past a number of (holiday) houses. Somewhere I probably missed a sign because a moment later I can not continue. The path has been closed. So a bit back and then try again on the road a little higher up. There are Coast Path markings on that road. The old path has been closed due to an unstable cliff.
When I’m out of Kingswear, it starts to rain. I walk under the trees and stay there for shelter. It is pouring, but fortunately the trees catch everything and I stay dry.
When it has stopped, I continue. It is starting to drip a little when I walk under the trees, but that is negligible with what just came out of the sky.
I think I got off well, but I’m wrong. A little later it starts to rain again. I still (or again) walk under the trees, but this time they do not stop everything (but a lot). Eventually I still get wet, although my pants remain largely dry. And all that without a coat …
But in the end it gets completely dry. In the meantime I have come out from under the trees and arrive at a coast guard station. Here you can also see the remains of a defensive work from the Second World War, Brownstone Battery, I walk right through it (of course with an additional descent and rise).
It continues along the coast on fairly exposed paths. That is annoying because I have to walk against the wind and there is a fair wind today. It also goes up and down a lot on this part. That is hard work.
The path is being worked on. Three men are busy making the first step for a ‘staircase’. I have a chat with them and tell them that I am walking the entire Coast Path. Then they want to know if this part is the most beautiful part 🙂 To which I answer tactically that all parts are beautiful, but all different.
From Sharkham Point the height differences get easier and it continues a bit more on the same level, with gradual (and small) height differences. A little further at Berry Head it starts to rain again, fortunately just for a moment. On Berry Head you can see the remains of a large fortress from the time of Napoleon. Normally I would have made time for that, but given the weather I continue.
When I arrive in Brixham, it drizzles, it is not good with the weather today. In the harbor of Brixham is a statue of William III of Orange, in honor of the Glorious Revolution. William III took over the power in England, at the invitation of a few prominent Englishmen. He landed with 500 ships in Brixham. On the side of the statue it says literally “Engelands vrijheid door Oranje hersteld” (England’s freedom restored by Orange).
Before I look-up the B&B, I first take a Guinness at the Blue Anchor (with a view of the statue of Willempie). After that I walk about a kilometer into the village to find my B&B.
I am now in the English Riviera.
Weather
Not so good today. Despite the fact that they predicted sunny and dry weather, it was raining this morning and later in the afternoon. Furthermore, it was a very gray day with a lot of wind. The sun came through a few times, but never for long.
Lyric of the day
Because William III started a revolution here, a lyric of a real English band. Today we have Revolution by The Beatles:
You say you want a revolution
Well, you know
We all want to change the world
You tell me that it’s evolution
Well, you know
We all want to change the world
But when you talk about destruction
Don’t you know that you can count me out
Don’t you know it’s gonna be alright
Alright, alright
You say you got a real solution
Well, you know
We’d all love to see the plan
You ask me for a contribution
Well, you know
We’re all doing what we can
But if you want money for people with minds that hate
All I can tell you is brother you have to wait
Don’t you know it’s gonna be alright
Alright, alright, al…
You say you’ll change the constitution
Well, you know
We all want to change your head
You tell me it’s the institution
Well, you know
You’d better free your mind instead
But if you go carrying pictures of Chairman Mao
You ain’t gonna make it with anyone anyhow
Don’t you know it’s gonna be alright
Alright, alright
Alright, alright
Alright, alright
Alright, alright
Alright, alright