Date: 20180624
Time: 9:45 – 14:30
Distance: 16.6 km
Stay: The Little Fox Hotel (formerly The Liscawn), Crafthole
Walk
A short route today. I do, however, reach one of the highest points on the south coast of Cornwall.
Before I leave, I first make a round through Looe.
Then it goes up through the narrow streets and I pick up the Coast Path again. In the beginning it is mainly about tarmac. This is also because part of the Coast Path has been moved because of a cliff that has collapsed.
The route now passes The Monkey Sanctuary, a place where several monkeys, who were illegally traded, found a home. I walk here because there must be a nice cafe. Unfortunately, that cafe is closed today. No coffee yet.
I continue on a narrow road between hedges. So narrow that if there wold have been a car that could not have passed me. But luckily the Coast Path enters a cornfield a little later. Now I walk again on paths and through the fields.
When I arrive in Seaton, it is time for coffee at the Smugglers Inn.
After the coffee I walk the alternative route over the Seaton Sea Wall Walkway and then over the beach. Beach is a big word in this, there is some gray sand, but mainly pebbles and rocks.
After this level part it goes up again. First back to the Coast Path and then to the highest point today, the Battern Cliff. The climb, however, is very gradual and is not a problem. Although this is the highest point on the south coast of Cornwall, I already have been at higher levels on the Coast Path.
Until Portwrinkle I walk on the usual Coast Path paths. Sometimes narrow and sometimes somewhat wider, sometimes well passable and sometimes overgrown, sometimes right along the cliff edge and sometimes a good deal from the edge, sometimes free and sometimes with barbed wire along it.
In Portwrinkle I walk along the ‘boulevard’ to the Jolly Roger, the beach café. I have reached my final destination, but not my hotel yet. Still, I think it’s time for a pint.
Because they have a restaurant license here, I also have to take something to eat. A chocolate cake then.
After enjoying my beer, it continues. My hotel is a bit further on, in Crafthole. That turns out to be about a mile away. But the hotel is nicely secluded, between the hills.
Portwrinkle and Crafthole have their own real ghost, Finnygook. In the 18th century there was a notorious smuggler named Silas Finn. Finny, as hek was called, was an ‘honorable’ smuggler, well known and appreciated throughout the region. Until one day he was caught with his contraband and he closed a deal with the government and betrayed his fellow smugglers. These were all arrested and Finny fled. It is said that his ghost is still haunting the cliffs of Portwrinkle and Crafthole, restless because of the betrayal of his honor and his friends.
The local pub, which is currently being restored after a big fire, is called The Finnygook Inn (gook is ghost).
Weather
Sunny, very warm and occasionally a light breeze from the sea.
Lyric of the day
Nothing but blue skies today, therefore the obvious Mr. Blue Sky by the Electric Light Orchestra:
Morning! Today’s forecast calls for blue skies
Sun is shining in the sky
There ain’t a cloud in sight
It’s stopped raining
Everybody’s in a play
And don’t you know
It’s a beautiful new day
Hey ay ay!
Runnin’ down the avenue [*panting*]
See how the sun shines brightly
In the city
On the streets where once was pity
Mr. Blue
Sky is living here today
Hey ay ay!
Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?
Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?
Hey you with the pretty face
Welcome to the human race
A celebration
Mr. Blue Sky’s up there waitin’
And today
Is the day we’ve waited for
Ooorrr
Oh, Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?
Hey there Mr. Blue
We’re so pleased to be with you
Look around see what you do
Everybody smiles at you
Hey there Mr. Blue
We’re so pleased to be with you
Look around see what you do,
Everybody smiles at you
[Robotic voice 3x:]
Mr. Blue Sky
Mr. Blue you did it right
But soon comes Mr. Night
Creeping over
Now his hand is on your shoulder
Never mind.
I’ll remember you this
I’ll remember you this way!
Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?
Hey there Mr. Blue (Sky)
We’re so pleased to be with you (Sky)
Look around see what you do (Blue)
Everybody smiles at you
[Instrumental]
[Choir singing]
[Robotic voice:] Please. Turn. Me. Ov-er.
