Date: 20180616
Time: 9:25 – 17:25
Distance: 29.9 km
Stay: Gold Martin B&B, Mawnan Smith
Walk
Today it starts rather flat. I go first to Lowland Point and as the name suggests it is not really high here. Then the route would actually go through a mining area. However, this doesn’t happen because of a collapsed cliff with accompanying diversion. And what a diversion, it immediately goes up steeply and for quite some time. It was long ago that I had to climb like that (that was more during the first walks of the Coast Path). Then the diversion goes through the inland and it is not that bad.
After a while I am doubting which way to go, but a look at my Garmin shows that I am already on the route again.
A few more kilometers and I’m at the Half Way Marker. That means I done half of my walking adventure. That calls for a celebration!
Unfortunately, this becomes a bit of an anti-climax. In Porthallow I quickly find the Half Way Marker. And there is a pub just along the beach where the Half Way Marker is located. But then, horror, the pub is closed (at 11:30) and it takes more than half an hour before it opens. Porthallow is not so inviting to hang around here for more than half an hour. It is quite a dead village and the view is not so spectacular (I am probably spoiled by now).
So, after having taken a picture of the Half Way Marker, it goes on. I will celebrate this milestone later and the pub gets my nomination of the worst pub in all of England!
After having followed some low cliffs, I have to cross Gillan Creek. There seems to be a ferry and at low tide it is also possible to cross via stepping stones or even wade through the remaining water. That would shorten my route today with a few kilometers. Of course I am going for the other option, walking around it.
The route around Gillan Creek is a nice and varied route. However, the first piece is a bit of a search. It goes right through the fields, but the route that my Garmin indicates I can not follow because the fields have been planted. Eventually I find my way and I reach the other side.
Now it goes towards Helford via an uneven forest path along the river. Here I have to cross the Helford River. Walking around it is not really an option (too long), so the ferry it will be. I actually planned to drink a pint on the other side. However, that will be slightly earlier. The ferry will only start again at 16:00 (because of too little water) and I am there around 14:30. That means waiting, but that is no problem. There is a pub close by, The Shipwrights Arms, and it is open. Time to celebrate that I’ve been halfway…
After a Guinness and a Proper Job it is 16:00 and I walk to the ferry again. I’m the first one there that wants to cross and I open the sign (a yellow round board) to indicate that I want to go to the other side. After a while the ferry arrives. The ferry is nothing more than a motorboat with a maximum capacity of 12 people. There are no more life jackets on board and the skipper is expendable …
On the Helford Passage side I continue with the Coast Path. Actually, I am ready for today, but to get to Mawnan Smith, I better walk a bit further and then go to the village. So I do that, that makes the route of tomorrow a lot easier.
When I arrive at Saxon Cove, I go inland, to Mawnan Smith, looking for a shower.
Weather
It was a bit of a gray day today. This morning, before I left, it was raining. It looked gray all day, but in the end it was dry all day. However, I have heard from other walkers (walking the same part of the Coast Path) that they have had rain.
Lyric of the day
Well, Gillan Creek and Saxon Cove, enough choice today. I stick with Gillan today (I’ll be back in Saxon Cove tomorrow). Today I go for the brilliant No Laughing in Heaven:
I used to be a sinner, used to have my cake and eat it
They warned me of my fate, but I was quite prepared to meet it
You’ll go to Hell they smiled at me
And told me of the roaring fires
But I was happy living wild
And fueling my own desires
I was a wild man
Drinking, smoking and messing around with women
Lots of women
No, not swimming, women
I wanna go to Heaven
The place to be is right up there
I wanna go to Heaven
It’s gonna be good so I won’t despair
I decided to reform and pray
Beg mercy for my soul
I prayed in church
Threw away my bad habits
Prayed out of church
Adopted an entirely different role
I gave my money to the poor until I was poor
But at least I ensured that I would go up there
Instead of down below to the Inferno
Where the evil flames of desire
Burned higher and higher and higher
I’m gonna go to Heaven
Paid my dues so I’m getting in
I’m gonna go to Heaven
It’s looking good if I abstain from sin
I knocked on the pearly gates
Neatly side-stepping the long queue
Waved hi to St. Peter
Who checked my card and let me through
I smiled, threw my hands in the air
Laughed and got arrested
They said hey man, you’re in the wrong place
Your behaviour is a disgrace
Here we pray every hour, on the hour
Read extracts from the Bible and look solemn’
What, says I, no party?
No party?
Let me out
Let me out of Heaven
I got it wrong, no I can’t stay here
No laughing in Heaven
Let me out, I just can’t stay here
Well I ran around in the state of shock and panic
This wan’t what I expected
Here was what looked like a bunch of manic depressives
Can I get a transfer, I screamed
But no, once you’re in Heaven, you’re here for good
The good of your soul, but that’s no good for me
If you want to go to Hell you’ve really got to be bad
Okay, okay, I’ll be bad
Too late
What do you mean too late
Too late
No
In the meantime
Let me out of Heaven
I’ve got it wrong, no I can’t stay here
No laughing in Heaven
Oh God, it’s awful here
Going crazy in Heaven
Take me out and let me go to hell
No laughing in Heaven
Don’t laugh, this place is Hell
Photos
