20180630 Salcombe – Slapton

Date: 20180630

Time: 9:20 – 16:10

Distance: 26.6 km

Stay: The Tower Inn, Slapton

Walk

Today starts again with a trip on the ferry, over the Kingsbridge Estuary this time. On this side (the south side) of the Coast Path there are many more and larger rivers than on the other side (the north side). I have thought about it carefully, but the explanation is actually very logical. Water always looks for the easiest way, so down. If you look at the map of England, this side (the south side) is at the bottom. That is where the water flows. That is why there are so many rivers on this side of the Coast Path.

After the ferry crossing it continues in a relaxed way. Basically I have an easy day in terms of height. However, there are several parts with a difficult path, lots of stones and rocks in it and occasionally climbing over rocks.

At Gara Rock I take a diversion from the path to walk up for the view. As usual, that adds the necessary height meters to my walk.

From Prawle Point, there is a Coastwatch station here, it goes down and then a few kilometers along the sea with the cliffs above it, a very flat stretch.

Under Prawle Point is a natural arch that only becomes visible when I look back.

Then it goes up again, although that is not too bad. When I walk back into civilization, I arrive at Hallsands, a village that disappeared into the sea in 1917 in a great storm. The ruins of the houses are still visible along the coast.

I pass Hallsands and Lannacombe, but there is nothing to drink anywhere. Only in Beesand I come to the Cricket Inn, finally something to drink (I have enough water with me, but something else and cold is also appreciated).

After that I have a few kilometers to go before I am in Slapton. The last part goes along Lower Ley and Slapton Ley. A rather boring stretch between a road along the beach and the largest natural lake in the south west. The path is very poorly walkable due to large sections with loose sand (I would have been better off walking on the beach).

Eventually I arrive at the Tower Inn in Slapton. It turns out to be closed … But luckily someone shows up so that I can go to my room. Shoes off, slippers on, backpack off and then back a few hundred meters. There was the Queens Arms and that was open 🙂

Weather

Sunny and warm, some clouds in the morning and later in the afternoon. A lot of wind again. The wind was not so friendly today. There were parts of the path, along the cliffs, where I could have walked without wind. At Start Point I was almost blown off my socks. Luckily there was plenty of room there.

Lyric of the day

Today I stay at The Tower Inn, which takes its name from the remaining western tower of The Collegiate Chantry or St Mary (a group of priests who sang for someone’s salvation, in this case apparently in a nice building). So I took a lyric from the old days, Tower by Angel:

Wind is raw, the air is stale
On this cold winter’s night
Sent alone to tell a tale
From the land of Delmite
Journey starts at the edge of town
With the stars as my guide
There’s no one here but my empty thoughts
And the sword by my side

Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn
Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn

Sun is leaving the darkened clouds,
As it slips past the hills
Slow moon climbs way up in the sky,
Keeps the heavens so still
Come this far, though I know not why
Said the things I’ve been told
Greedy village that has sent me here
For it’s own pot of gold

Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn
Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn

Everywhere the wind did sail,
The castle lies just ahead
Blade is drawn, still I carry on
On my brow a cold sweat.
As I look there upon the hill,
There it stands so tall
Said that stone structured wall of gold,
Will heed the voice of us all.

Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn
Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn

Just a light, from a tower
Burning on from dusk to dawn
Just a light, from a tower
Stands the victor and his gold,
And that’s all!!!

Photos

20180629 Bantham – Salcombe

Date: 20180629

Time: 9:55 – 16:10

Distance: 20.6 km

Stay: Rocarno, Salcombe

Walk

After breakfast I first fill up my water supply at the local store. That was necessary, I had no drop left.

Today also starts very relaxed. I walk to Hope Cove, there are the villages Outer Hope and Inner Hope. Here are opportunities to have a drink, but it is still too early.

After Hope Cove it is done with relaxing. It goes up to Bolt Tail, but not too steep. From Bolt Tail you have a very nice view, mainly on the part that I have walked the last few days.
It blows a lot today, so hard that I take off my hat. That blows off my head in spite of Lise’s cord.

Once I am at the top, it continues with a relaxed part with relatively few height differences. But then it suddenly goes all the way down and pretty steep. And as it goes on the Coast Path, almost immediately straight up towards Bolt Head. During this climb I have to cover a narrow path right along the cliff edge. Fortunately, there is almost no wind on this stretch. That could have been quite annoying. The last part rises steeply against a grass slope, the wind is back at full strength and I walk against the wind. That is a hard part.
When I reach highest point, I take a short break.

Then it goes on to Bolt Head in a relaxed manner. That is at about the same level and then just before it goes down again.

After Bolt Head it goes to Salcombe. A few kilometers through civilization and then a pint at the Ferry Inn.

Weather

Again a very sunny day, only blue skies and very hot. The wind came from land and was much more powerful today (no more breeze). Despite Lise’s cord my hat blew several times from my head. That’s why I decided to take it off.

Lyric of the day

The wind was very strong today. I feel stormy, but that was probably not the case. But still as the lyrics of the day Stormbringer by Deep Purple:

Comin’ out of nowhere
Drivin’ like rain
Stormbringer dance
On the thunder again
Dark cloud gathering
Breaking the day
No point running
‘Cause it’s coming your way

Ride the rainbow
Crack the sky
Stormbringer coming
Time to die
Got to keep running
Stormbringer coming
He’s got nothing you need
He’s gonna make you bleed

Rainbow shaker
On a stallion twister
Bareback rider
On the eye of the sky
Stormbringer coming down
Meaning to stay
Thunder and lightning
Heading your way

Ride the rainbow
Crack the sky
Stormbringer coming
Time to die
Got to keep running
Stormbringer coming
He’s got nothing you need
He’s gonna make you bleed

Coming out of nowhere
Drivin’ like a-rain
Stormbringer dance
On the thunder again
Dark cloud gathering
Breaking the day
No point running
‘Cause it’s coming your way

Photos

20180628 Noss Mayo – Bantham

Date: 20180628

Time: 9:20 – 15:45

Distance: 24.3 km

Stay: The Sloop Inn, Bantham

Walk

The start of today is easy, a long and wide grass path above the cliffs. Since the farm I stayed in last night was also on a high location, I do not even have to walk up. The view is once again great, in all directions.
On the way I meet the father of the farmer. He is 82 years old and drives an inspection round with his Jeep. We chat for a moment, he wants to know everything, and then it goes on.

After a few kilometers of relaxed walking, I take an alternative from the Coast Path so that I pass the Church of St Peter the Poor Fisherman. As always, there is a price for this detour. It immediately goes down steeply and later I will have to go up again, the Coast Path continues relaxed at the same level.
But that does not matter, a bit rougher area is also fun again.

The Church of St Peter the Poor Fisherman was built in 1226 and is no longer complete (there is a part of the roof missing). Nevertheless, services are still provided here in the summer. Of course, the traditional graveyard around the church is also there. A few graves are placed behind a fence, these are probably the really dangerous ones…

The wide grass path where I am now walking again, changes slowly and becomes narrower. There are also more gates that I have to go through and at some point it goes through meadows and fields again. One of those fields is very nice, a whole field full of wheat (knee high) with a narrow path through it. That looks nice.
I think you can make some nice crop circles here.

Well, and then I was standing in front of the Erm, a river that I had to cross. In principle you can wade this river one hour before and one hour after low tide. That was exactly at 1 o’clock today and I was there a little after 12 o’clock. Nice on time.
I had actually planned in advance to just choose the alternative, a taxi all around (about 24 kilometers). Because I wanted to see where I could cross, I walked to the water to see what it looked like.

On the spot, I decided to take the guess and risk my life and wade through it. Where other hikers had failed, I would prevail. So I stripped down to my underpants, stuffed everything in the backpack and went barefoot into the water. I immediately felt the current and I was able to keep up with a lot of effort. Step by step it crossed the wild flowing river to the other side. The water stood up to my chest and I was able to keep my things dry over my head with great effort. Under my feet I felt razor-sharp stones that destroyed my soles. What did I get myself into…

This is how it will sound like if I ever write a book. In reality, I rolled up my trousers, removed my socks and shoes and crossed the river barefoot over pebbles. Or at least what was left of the river at that moment. That did not even come to my knees …

On the other side, it was time for a little break. If only to let my feet dry in the sun before I put on my socks and shoes again.

After the Erm it went to the next river, the Avon. The route became a lot heavier on this part, between the two rivers. It went up and down again and occasionally very steep. However, this was rewarded with even more amazing views than I had this morning. A lot of up and down usually also means a much rougher coast and that gives beautiful views.

The result of all that climbing is that I start to get very hot. Luckily I arrive at Bigbury on Sea at one point and on the first occasion I stop for a pint of Guinness. That’s at The Waterfront, here they have Guinness Extra Cold, that’s good. I can use that now.

After this well-deserved cool down, I begin the last part of today, to the Avon. I walk higher along the estuary and look down from above. That looks nice again.

When I arrive at the place where the ferry should be, I’m looking for the exact spot. You have to attract the attention of the ferryman by waving to indicate that you want to go to the other side. But then you have to know where to stand and wave. After some up and down walking (there is water in various places and that is slowly rising because the flood is becoming), I see on the other side someone who is busy with a boat. That turns out to be the ferryman and he instructs me to go to another spot. I do not quite understand where and he calls that I just have to watch where the ferry goes.

I know approximately
where I should be and walk there with a detour (I have to look where the water is still shallow enough so that I can walk through without my shoes ‘overflowing’). In the meantime the water has already risen a few centimeters, but I find my way and after the passengers are out of the ferry, I can board it.

While we are having a chat, the ferryman takes me to the other side. I only have to walk a little bit up to the village to find the Sloop Inn.

Weather

It was very hot again today, full sun all day. Fortunately there was a good breeze today too, this time from land.

Lyric of the day

When I was doing the easy part of the walk this morning, I realized how privileged I am that I can do this. I also realized that after about 6 weeks I am missing everybody, Ada, Gerben, Sandy, Lise, the rest of the family, neighbors, friends and acquaintances, colleagues and in general the Limburgers between whom I grew up.
Hence today a song by Pink Floyd, Wish You Were Here (but not all at the same time please 🙂 ).

So, so you think you can tell Heaven from Hell, blue skies from pain.
Can you tell a green field from a cold steel rail?
A smile from a veil?
Do you think you can tell?

Did they get you to trade your heroes for ghosts?
Hot ashes for trees?
Hot air for a cool breeze?
Cold comfort for change?
Did you exchange
A walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?

How I wish, how I wish you were here.
We’re just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl, year after year,
Running over the same old ground.
What have we found?
The same old fears.
Wish you were here.

So, so you think you can tell Heaven from Hell, blue skies from pain.
Can you tell a green field from a cold steel rail?
A smile from a veil?
Do you think you can tell?

Did they get you to trade your heroes for ghosts?
Hot ashes for trees?
Hot air for a cool breeze?
Cold comfort for change?
Did you exchange
A walk-on part in the war for a lead role in a cage?

How I wish, how I wish you were here.
We’re just two lost souls swimming in a fish bowl, year after year,
Running over the same old ground.
What have we found?
The same old fears.
Wish you were here.

Photos

20180627 Plymouth – Noss Mayo

Date: 20180627

Time: 9:20 – 15:50

Distance: 28.8 km

Stay: Worswell Barton Farmhouse, Noss Mayo

Walk

A long walk today, not only today’s part, but also a detour and a part of tomorrow’s trail. It is also the first walk back in Devon. When I came to Plymouth by ferry, I crossed the border between Cornwall and Devon. I’ve done the entire Cornwall Coast Path!

After breakfast I first go to the Tesco around the corner to replenish my water supply. Then it goes through Hoe Park and past the Smeaton’s Tower towards the Barbican.
Here I pass the Blues Bar where I was last night for a live performance by Vince Lee & Al Wallis, very good blues music (but late in bed …).

Then it goes all around all the water that they have in Plymouth to Mount Batten. That looks like a short walk, but is almost 10 kilometers. I could have done this with a ferry, it is not the most fun part of the Coast Path. But I do not want that. It is part of the Coast Path and so I walk it.
It is in any case something completely different, first through the entertainment district (because of a detour, the footbridge is closed because it is damaged), then through industrial sites (old and new, fishing / boats related and all kinds of other companies), the suburbs from Plymouth and finally a marina. On the way I come across several half or almost completely rotten boats.

Eventually I arrive at Mount Batten, a few hundred meters from where I walked this morning (on the other side of the water). I also visit Mount Batten Tower, but unfortunately it is not open.

Now I come back on a part of the Coast Path that I am used to, through nature and close to the sea. At the Jennycliff Café I take a short break for a smoothie and after I have passed the Bovisand holiday park, I leave behind the last remnants of civilization, until to Wembury Beach.

From Wembury Beach it is a few kilometers to Warren Point, where I have to take the ferry over the Yealm. I am well on time, the ferry goes until 4 pm and I am there before 3 pm already. After I have given the signal (making a white sign visible), I sit down on the steps of the berth for a short break. That is indeed only a small break because about 5 minutes later the ferry is already arriving. I get a private crossing for myself. I chat with the skipper and then I am already on the Noss Mayo side.

Now I can choose, I can walk to Noss Mayo and from there to the farm where I stay for the night or I walk another 2.5 miles on the Coast Path and walk from there to the farm. The latter makes the route of tomorrow a lot shorter and since that is a difficult day (with two crossings, one of which without a ferry) I choose this option.

The first piece goes up through a forest. That is nice with this warm weather, shade. Then it goes over a wide walking path further along the top of the cliff. That part is a bit heavy, in the full sun and after I have already walked that far. I keep going and finally I come to the place where I leave the Coast Path and head towards farm. I arrive there just before 4 o’clock, time for a shower.

After I have showered, I walk for half an hour to the pub for a pint and something to eat. It goes downhill, so that is not so bad. I will not be walking that part up again, I will call Jackie (the owner of the B & B) to come and get me.

Weather

It was very hot today, full sun all day. Fortunately, there was a strong breeze from the sea that made life a lot more pleasant.

Lyric of the day

Last night I went back to the Blues Bar for good music and a few pints of Guinness. The lyrics of today are about what I saw when I walked back to the hotel. Here is Fairies Wear Boots by Black Sabbath:

Goin’ home, late last night
Suddenly I got a fright
Yeah I looked through a window and surprised what I saw
Fairy wear boots and dancin’ with a dwarf, all right now!

Yeah, fairies wear boots and you gotta believe me
Yeah I saw it, I saw it, I tell you no lies
Yeah, fairies wear boots and you gotta believe me
I saw it, I saw it with my own two eyes, all right now!

Yeah, fairies wear boots and you gotta believe me
Yeah I saw it, I saw it, I tell you no lies
Yeah, fairies wear boots and you gotta believe me
I saw it, I saw it with my own two eyes, all right now!

So I went to the doctor, see what he could give me
He said “Son, son, you’ve gone too far.
`cause smokin’ and trippin’ is all that you do.”
Yeah……

Photos

20180626 Plymouth (rest day)

Date: 20180626

Stay: The Imperial, Plymouth

Activities

Rest day in Plymouth. Since it is very hot, I also make it a real rest day. In the morning I walk a bit through the Plymouth shopping center and the old town.

Then I go looking for The Hyde Park, a micro brewery. Unfortunately, there is no more micro-brewing being done. The equipment has failed and they have never restarted…
Fortunately, they have a good selection of beers on tap. So a good place to sit and read for a while, have lunch and try a few beers.

Weather

Sun all day and very warm.

Lyric of the day

Starting today I will, if possible, place a link to the song under the title so that you can immediately click on it to hear what I’m talking about.

It was really summer today, so today’s lyrics are Summer In The City by The Lovin’ Spoonful:

Hot town, summer in the city
Back of my neck getting dirty and gritty
Been down, isn’t it a pity?
Doesn’t seem to be a shadow in the city
All around, people looking half dead
Walking on the sidewalk, hotter than a match head

But at night it’s a different world
Go out and find a girl
Come on, come on and dance all night
Despite the heat it’ll be all right

And babe, don’t you know it’s a pity
That the days can’t be like the nights
In the summer, in the city
In the summer, in the city

Cool town, evening in the city
Dressing so fine and looking so pretty
Cool cat, looking for a kitty
Gonna look in every corner of the city
Till I’m wheezing like a bus stop
Running up the stairs, gonna meet you on the rooftop

But at night it’s a different world
Go out and find a girl
Come on, come on and dance all night
Despite the heat it’ll be all right

And babe, don’t you know it’s a pity
That the days can’t be like the nights
In the summer, in the city
In the summer, in the city

Hot town, summer in the city
Back of my neck getting dirty and gritty
Been down, isn’t it a pity?
Doesn’t seem to be a shadow in the city
All around, people looking half dead
Walking on the sidewalk, hotter than a match head

But at night it’s a different world
Go out and find a girl
Come on, come on and dance all night
Despite the heat it’ll be all right

And babe, don’t you know it’s a pity
That the days can’t be like the nights
In the summer, in the city
In the summer, in the city

Photos

20180625 Portwrinkle – Plymouth

Date: 20180625

Time: 9:20 – 16:25

Distance: 30.6 km

Stay: The Imperial, Plymouth

Walk

Today it will be a long walk. All the way to Plymouth and then through the town to get to the hotel. It is, however, a mainly flat stretch.

The owner of the hotel tells me a shortcut. There is a shorter way from the hotel to the Coast Path than back where I came from. But then I miss a part of the path. In addition, I still want to walk through Crafthole to replenish my water supply at the local store.
After I have done that, it goes down a bit and then I am on the path again.

The first part goes along a golf course, there are already a few people playing golf on the Monday morning. I have a chat with one of them. He does not understand that we are not participating in the World Cup. I do not know what he is talking about 🙂

Then it becomes exciting, I go through the firing range, a military training ground. There are no red flags, so it will be fine, I hope. This is much better than the alternative, two kilometers along a fairly busy road without footpath along it. I walk past the shooting ranges and then arrive at Tregantle Fort. This is one of the many forts built around 1860 to defend naval bases against a French attack (that never came).

Then it goes towards Rame Head, a headland that I already can see for a while. Once there I make the effort to walk to the top, to the chapel of St Michael the Archangel on Rame Head. The chapel has been there for about 600 years, although the current version was renovated in 1882.
At the top I see that there are ponies walking around. In fact, the ponies have take over the chapel as a shelter. So the chapel has become a sort of pony stable…
Apart from that, the view from here is definitely worth it. Fortunately, the weather is clear and the Lizard can be seen to the west.

I continue to Penlee Point. Again a chapel or grotto can be admired here. For this I have to go down a bit. It is the chapel / grotto of Queen Adelaide. Originally an 18th century lookout, the chapel / grotto was created and named after Adelaide, a German princess and wife of the Duke of Clarence, who visited it.

After Penlee Point, a longer forest walk follows to Plymouth, via Cawsand and Kingsand. I come across a real fake ruin, built as a replacement for a navigation obelisk. In the end I walk through old gardens with their own Orangery.

Then it’s time for a ferry again. When I arrive, the ferry is already there. So quickly on board. When arriving at the other side, I am not quite where I expected to be. According to my data, the ferry should have taken me a bit further. No worries, I just walk there and then continue the route. So I do just that. Only to come to the conclusion that I can walk back the same stretch again because that is the route…
There was indeed a ferry on the spot where I expected it. Probably I did not look good enough in my haste and caught the wrong ferry.

The first part after the ferry is nice, after that it becomes a bit long-winded. Eventually I arrive at the Smeaton’s Tower. From here I depart from the Coast Path and head towards the hotel. That is found quickly enough and fortunately there is a bar so I can drink a beer. I have deserved that after having walked more than 30 kilometers.

After showering I go down to the Barbican, the entertainment center around the original harbor of Plymouth. Here I find, on instructions from the hotel owner, the Blues Bar. Good food and a beer while enjoying good music. Tomorrow night they have live music and I have a rest day here tomorrow. That is nice.

Weather

All day sun and quite warm. A breeze from the sea, but I only occasionally benefited from that.

Lyric of the day

Good music during dinner tonight at the Blues Bar. Therefore, a blues song as the lyric of the day, A Million Miles Away from the much too early passed away Rory Gallagher. The text is even a bit appropriate…

This hotel bar is full of people, the piano man is really laying it down
The old bartender is a high as a steeple, so why tonight should I wear a frown? (Yes, I’m a…)

Million miles away, I’m a million miles away
I’m sailing like a driftwood on a windy bay

Why ask how I feel how does it look to you?
I feel hook, line and sinker, I lost my captain and my crew
I’m standing on the landing, there’s no one there but me
That’s where you’ll find me, looking out on the deep blue sea

This hotel bar is full of people, the piano man is really laying it down
The old bartender is a high as steeple, so why tonight should I wear a frown?

The joint is jumping all around me and my mood is really not in style
Right now the blues want to surround me but I’ll break out after a while

Well, I’m a million miles away, I’m a million miles away
I’m sailing like a driftwood on a windy bay

Why ask how I feel, well, how does it look to you?
I feel hook line and sinker, I lost my captain and my crew
I’m standing on the landing and there’s no one there but me
That’s where you’ll find me, looking out on the deep blue see

There’s a song on the lips of everybody, there’s a smile all around the room
There’s conversation overflowing, so why must I sit here in the gloom?

This hotel bar lost all its people, the piano man has caught the last bus home
The old bartender is asleep in the corner, so why must I still be here, I don’t know

Well, I’m a million miles away, I’m a million miles away
I’m sailing like a driftwood on a windy bay

Photos

20180624 Looe – Portwrinkle

Date: 20180624

Time: 9:45 – 14:30

Distance: 16.6 km

Stay: The Little Fox Hotel (formerly The Liscawn), Crafthole

Walk

A short route today. I do, however, reach one of the highest points on the south coast of Cornwall.

Before I leave, I first make a round through Looe.
Then it goes up through the narrow streets and I pick up the Coast Path again. In the beginning it is mainly about tarmac. This is also because part of the Coast Path has been moved because of a cliff that has collapsed.

The route now passes The Monkey Sanctuary, a place where several monkeys, who were illegally traded, found a home. I walk here because there must be a nice cafe. Unfortunately, that cafe is closed today. No coffee yet.

I continue on a narrow road between hedges. So narrow that if there wold have been a car that could not have passed me. But luckily the Coast Path enters a cornfield a little later. Now I walk again on paths and through the fields.

When I arrive in Seaton, it is time for coffee at the Smugglers Inn.

After the coffee I walk the alternative route over the Seaton Sea Wall Walkway and then over the beach. Beach is a big word in this, there is some gray sand, but mainly pebbles and rocks.
After this level part it goes up again. First back to the Coast Path and then to the highest point today, the Battern Cliff. The climb, however, is very gradual and is not a problem. Although this is the highest point on the south coast of Cornwall, I already have been at higher levels on the Coast Path.

Until Portwrinkle I walk on the usual Coast Path paths. Sometimes narrow and sometimes somewhat wider, sometimes well passable and sometimes overgrown, sometimes right along the cliff edge and sometimes a good deal from the edge, sometimes free and sometimes with barbed wire along it.

In Portwrinkle I walk along the ‘boulevard’ to the Jolly Roger, the beach café. I have reached my final destination, but not my hotel yet. Still, I think it’s time for a pint.
Because they have a restaurant license here, I also have to take something to eat. A chocolate cake then.

After enjoying my beer, it continues. My hotel is a bit further on, in Crafthole. That turns out to be about a mile away. But the hotel is nicely secluded, between the hills.

Portwrinkle and Crafthole have their own real ghost, Finnygook. In the 18th century there was a notorious smuggler named Silas Finn. Finny, as hek was called, was an ‘honorable’ smuggler, well known and appreciated throughout the region. Until one day he was caught with his contraband and he closed a deal with the government and betrayed his fellow smugglers. These were all arrested and Finny fled. It is said that his ghost is still haunting the cliffs of Portwrinkle and Crafthole, restless because of the betrayal of his honor and his friends.
The local pub, which is currently being restored after a big fire, is called The Finnygook Inn (gook is ghost).

Weather

Sunny, very warm and occasionally a light breeze from the sea.

Lyric of the day

Nothing but blue skies today, therefore the obvious Mr. Blue Sky by the Electric Light Orchestra:

Morning! Today’s forecast calls for blue skies

Sun is shining in the sky
There ain’t a cloud in sight
It’s stopped raining
Everybody’s in a play
And don’t you know
It’s a beautiful new day
Hey ay ay!

Runnin’ down the avenue [*panting*]
See how the sun shines brightly
In the city
On the streets where once was pity
Mr. Blue
Sky is living here today
Hey ay ay!

Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?

Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?

Hey you with the pretty face
Welcome to the human race
A celebration
Mr. Blue Sky’s up there waitin’
And today
Is the day we’ve waited for
Ooorrr

Oh, Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?

Hey there Mr. Blue
We’re so pleased to be with you
Look around see what you do
Everybody smiles at you

Hey there Mr. Blue
We’re so pleased to be with you
Look around see what you do,
Everybody smiles at you

[Robotic voice 3x:]
Mr. Blue Sky

Mr. Blue you did it right
But soon comes Mr. Night
Creeping over
Now his hand is on your shoulder
Never mind.
I’ll remember you this
I’ll remember you this way!

Mr. Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away
For so long (so long)
Where did we go wrong?

Hey there Mr. Blue (Sky)
We’re so pleased to be with you (Sky)
Look around see what you do (Blue)
Everybody smiles at you

[Instrumental]

[Choir singing]

[Robotic voice:] Please. Turn. Me. Ov-er.

Photos

20180623 Fowey – Looe

Date: 20180623

Time: 9:50 – 16:45

Distance: 21.8 km

Stay: Bridgeside Guesthouse, Looe

Walk

Today I walk to Looe, where Ada, the kids and I went on holiday in 2009. But first I have to take the ferry from Fowey to Polruan. This goes fortunately every 15 minutes and when I arrive at the quay, it is already coming.

Then it goes to Polperro. It goes up and down to Polperro and occasionally quite steep.
They are making a fence around a meadow. One of the workers warns me to stay on the path because otherwise I get stuck. The route through the meadow seems indeed easier, but at the top the fence is already finished and you can indeed not get back to the path.

Polperro is again such a village that you only see at the last minute. An ideal opportunity for a break, there is a life band on a stage. So the break will be in the neighborhood in the pub so that I can hear the music, I go for the Blue Peter Inn. A good beer and life music.

If I go further, I run into a procession. Everyone dressed as a pirate, a kind of brass band in the front and even more musicians at the back. I wait until they have passed and then go on again.

From Polperro I take Reubens Walk as an alternative to the Coast Path. That goes a bit closer to the coast and also comes closer to the mini lighthouse that is here.
Then it goes to Talland Bay. We were here at the time. We then walked the Coast Path from Looe to Talland Bay and then went back inland. Unfortunately, everything was closed in Talland Bay last time. That is not the case now, there are quite some people. But hey, what do you want, it is Saturday, summer and good weather.

From Talland Bay to Looe is a nice relaxed walk. It takes a while, but then Looe Island comes into view. Then I walk into Looe. Through the suburb and then on to the center.

In the center I grab a pint at The Harbor Moon Inn. Here we also ended in 2009 after our walk. We also ate here. The kids wanted a hamburger, but there was only cheeseburger on the menu. So I ordered three cheeseburger without the cheese …

Weather

Another sunny day, nice walking weather.

Lyric of the day

Today it is again the 23rd, therefore a lyric for Ada. Although she is not a true Black Sabbath fan (understatement), I hope she can appreciate the great text. Here is Symptom Of The Universe:

Take me through the centuries to supersonic years
Electrifying enemy is drowning in his tears
All I have to give you is a love that never dies
The symptom of the universe is written in your eyes

Yeah

Mother Moon—she’s calling me back to her silver womb
Father of creation takes me from my stolen tomb
Seventh Advent unicorn is waiting in the skies
A symptom of the universe, a love that never dies

Yeah

Take my hand, my child of love, come step inside my tears
Swim the magic ocean I’ve been crying all these years
With our love we’ll ride away into eternal skies
A symptom of the universe, a love that never dies

Yeah

Woman, child of love’s creation, come and step inside my dreams
In your eyes I see no sadness, you are all that loving means
Take my hand and we’ll go riding through the sunshine from above
We’ll find happiness together in the summer skies of love

Photos

20180622 Charlestown – Fowey

Date: 20180622

Time: 9:30 – 14:50

Distance: 19.5 km

Stay: Safe Harbour Hotel, Fowey

Walk

After another tour around the historic port of Charlestown, it continues on the Coast Path.

Just after Charlestown there is a Coast Guard station, at Landrion Point. I walk there for the view. The volunteer invites me to come and see the station and tells me a lot about his work. Due to budget constraints, more and more Coast Guard stations were closed. They were putting all there trust on equipment. Until it went wrong and drowned people were found under a closed Coast Guard station. Then it became clear that one can not do completely without human observation. Since then, more and more of the closed Coast Guard stations have been staffed again, but with volunteers this time.
Since there is only one volunteer at a time on each station, they call each other every hour (to prevent that someone is in trouble without anybody noticing).

The route to Par is a breeze. Almost flat and for a large part along a golf course. Only the last piece is a bit less interesting. That part is also easy to walk, but not so beautiful. I have to walk around the clay industry.

There is little to do on the beach in Par. That may be due to the industry that is just around the corner. In the village itself there are possibilities to have a drink, but I prefer to sit somewhere by the sea.
So on it goes to Polkeris. Here is a pub on the beach with a large terrace and it is open, what more could I want. Time for a pint!

After Polkeris it goes up and down again a number of times, but in general it is also just a nice walk. When I arrive at Gribbin Head, it’s time for biscuits and drinks. We used to do that with the kids when they came from school. I sit on the bench at the day marker on Gribbin Head and enjoy the sun.
After this break, it continues on an alternative part of Coast Path that goes more along the coast. But not too long, after about a kilometer I am back on the official route.

I arrive at Polridmouth Cove and a little later things go wrong. So you walk on an as good as flat sand path in a small forest and a bit ahead a stile appears, a fence that you have to climb over. You look ahead at where you are going and do not pay attention to where you are walking. After all, that was the flat sand path… And then suddenly, spontaneously, a tree root jumps up the path, right in front of my feet! And what do you think? I stumble and go down completely, with my face straight on the path.
Everything full of dust, a thick lip and blood on my chin. After brushing off most of the dust, having my chin fitted with a tissue and having inspected everything else, it goes on. I do not have to go that far.

In Fowey I go straight to my hotel so that I can better see how it is with my face. That appears to be mainly dusty, just like my clothes. Apparently, I had not completely brushed off the dust.
The wound on my chin continues to bleed, but I do not think stitching is needed. After the shower, the bleeding stops and I feel fine again.

Total damage:

  • Scratch on the nose
  • Wound on the chin (which nobody sees through my beard)
  • Scratches on the frame of my sunglasses
  • Bended cross (the chain, for me that is the worst)
  • Ego fucked up 🙂

There are worse things in this world…

Weather

Sunny, dry and generally perfect walking weather. Not too much wind today, yesterday it blew quite a bit.

Lyric of the day

After walking more than 370 miles, occasionally on the most difficult paths or simply rocks, today I went down on an ordinary forest path. The lyric of today therefore, Down Down by Status Quo, an appropriate title.

Get down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Get down deeper and down

I want all the world to see
To see you’re laughing, and you’re laughing at me
I can take it all from you
Again again again again
Again again again and deeper and down

Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Get down deeper and down

I have all the ways you see
To keep you guessing, stop your messing with me
You’ll be back to find your way
Again again again again
Again-gain-gain-gain deeper and down

Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Get down

Get down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Get down deeper and down

I have found you out you see
I know what you’re doing, what you’re doing to me
I’ll keep on and say to you
Again again again again
Again-gain-gain-gain deeper and down

Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Down down deeper and down
Get down

Photos

20180621 Mevagissey – Charlestown

Date: 20180621

Time: 9:40 – 14:35

Distance: 14.4 km

Stay: Pier House Hotel And Restaurant, Charlestown

Walk

A short but heavy route today. It goes to Charlestown, a picturesque fishing village that is often used in film recordings such as Poldark and (for the elderly among us) The Onedin Line. Here are also some big old sailing ships. I have been here with Ada a long time ago and then with Ada and the kids in 2009. The weather wasn’t very good last time, so we went into the Shipwreck and Heritage Center.

During the first, not so heavy part, I go through a lot of meadows with cows. It is a very sloping landscape and I can see how the Coast Path goes. That’s a good thing because I see that there are cows on a part of the Coast Path that is fairly narrow, on the edge of the meadow where there are bushes. Fortunately, I also see that there is a possibility to simply walk through the meadow. Then I will not end up in that narrow part and a little later I can pick up the route again.

After the meadows I arrive in Pentewan. This is a small village with a holiday park that is many times larger than the village. Here are the necessary opportunities for a drink, but it is still too early. I am just walking and have traveled less than 5 kilometers. So I go on.

After Pentewan the ‘heavy’ part of the walk starts. It goes down and up steeply a number of times. As far as I’m concerned, it is not that bad, it’s heavy on the legs, but I got used to that. What I find more annoying is that quite a bit goes along some meadows that are very narrow. On the left there is barbed wire and on the right there are shrubs that partly grow on the path. The path itself is a narrow worn track. That means that you have to put your feet right before each other every time and that does not walk easily.
After a while I come to a part where the path is wider again and even later well mowed. Here it is good again.

When I arrive at Black Head, I make a diversion to walk to the tip of Black Head. The Coast Path skips this, but since the route is already short today, I can manage a little extra.
That extra is not that bad, a few hundred meters that only go up a bit (and later down), but it is worth it. From Black Head you have a great view to Mevagissey and also to the coast where I still have to come (tomorrow probably).

After Black Head it is not done with the steep slopes. It goes down and up again with stairs. Those steps are very uneven, as is normal on the Coast Path.
But then I come to Porthpean Beach. Here it is very busy. I think there are a number of school classes that have an outing. I take a break at the beach with a juice.

After the break it goes up one more time, via a regular staircase. Then I walk to Charlestown at ease. There I first sit on the terrace for a pint (or two) and then I walk around the harbor in Charlestown. I also walk past the museum that we visited with the kids in 2009.

Weather

Sunny but not too hot. Nice walking weather.

Lyric of the day

Large sailing ships in the port of Charlestown that can sail away. So today Sail Away by Deep Purple:

If you’re driftin’ on an empty ocean
With no wind to fill your sail
The future, your horizon
It’s like searchin’ for the Holy Grail
You feel there’s no tomorrow
As you look into the water below
It’s only your reflection
And you still ain’t got no place to go

Time will show
When, I don’t know

Sail away tomorrow
Sailin’ far away
To find it steal or borrow
I’ll be there someday yea-yea-yeah yea-ye-yeah

Oh, woman, I keep returnin
To sing the same old song
The story’s been told, now I’m gettin’ old
Tell me,where do I belong?
Feel like I’m goin’ to surrender
Hard times I’ve had enough
If I could find a place to hide my face
I believe, I could get back up

Time will show
When, I don’t know

Sail away tomorrow
Sailin’ far away
To find it steal or borrow
But I’ll be there someday yea-yea-yeah yea-yea-yea-yeah

Sail away tomorrow
Sailin’ far away
To find it steal or borrow
But I’ll be there someday yea-yea-yeah yea-yea-yea-yeah

Sail away tomorrow
Sailin’ far away
To find it steal or borrow
But I’ll be there someday yeah yeah yeah yea-yea-yeah yeah yeah yeah

Photos

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