20180527 Bude – Crackington Haven

Date: 20180527

Time: 9:50 – 15:00

Distance: 18.0 km

Stay: Coombe Barton Inn, Crackington Haven

Walk

Today a more relaxed route. Although there were a few climbs at the last section. Basically everything that a South West Coast Path walk should have:

  • Beautiful views – check!
  • Steep slopes – check!
  • Walking on top of the world – check!
  • Nice weather – check!
  • Bridges over streams that end up in the sea – check!
  • Coffee halfway – check!
  • Beach – check!
  • Waterfalls – check!
  • 300 million year old rocks, which are folded zig-zag – check!
  • Stairs – check! check! check!
  • Other hikers to chat with – check!
  • Pub at the end – check!

Something more about those rocks. The rocks are about 300 million years old and made up of the sedimentary rocks sandstone and shale (mud and other minerals). They were formed in the Carboniferous Period. Over the years the rock layers have become squashed and folded by the movement of the earth’s crust (the tectonic plates) to produce almost vertical strata in some places.
The cliffs at Millook Haven are spectacular, with extensive chevron (zig-zag) folding.

Weather

And again perfect walking weather. Cloudy, occasionally sunny and a nice temperature. Although there were occasionally dark clouds, it has remained completely dry.

It was blowing even faster today than yesterday. That was certainly a challenge in certain parts (where it went down steeply both on the left and on the right). Fortunately, the path was wide enough here.

Lyric of the day

Because there was so much wind today and because in the end we are no more than dust, today’s lyrics are from Kansas, Dust in the Wind:

I close my eyes only for a moment, and the moment’s gone
All my dreams pass before my eyes, a curiosity

Dust in the wind
All they are is dust in the wind

Same old song
Just a drop of water in an endless sea
All we do crumbles to the ground
Though we refuse to see

Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind

Now don’t hang on
Nothing lasts forever but the earth and sky
It slips away
And all your money won’t another minute buy

Dust in the wind
All we are is dust in the wind
(All we are is dust in the wind)
Dust in the wind
(Everything is dust in the wind)
Everything is dust in the wind
(In the wind)

Photos

20180526 Hartland Quay – Bude

Date: 20180526

Time: 8:40  -16:10

Distance: 27.1 km

Stay: Brendon Arms, Bude

Walk

This is my 10th walking day on the South West Coast Path. And a heavy stage is up for today. All documentation that I have (see Information) warns for today’s stage. Not only is it long, it also goes up and down very often. Since they have predicted rain around 4 p.m., I leave on time. I want to be ready on time so that I suffer as little as possible from the rain.

The first part is very relaxed, at least after the initial climb. I walk without too many height differences on top off the cliffs and through meadows. On top of the world.
Then I reach a picnic bench, here a couple is eating. They make room for me and I sit down to chat and have a drink. I taste their homemade cake and then I walk on.

After a while I arrive at a hut. This was from the poet Ronald Duncan who got inspiration here. With such a view he must have written beautiful poems.

I leave Devon behind me and continue in Cornwall.

Then I am suddenly caught up. That is special, usually I am the one who passes people. It is someone who runs the part that I am walking today. I thought I was sweating a lot, but he is soaking wet from head to toe. When we talk for a moment, there is a constant stream of fluid from his cap. Am I glad that I can walk.

I was not planning to walk to Morwenstow, the route of today is long enough. However, there is a diversion because part of the Coast Path is impassable. This diversion is via Morwenstow. So if I am already there, then it is time for coffee at the Rectory Farm Tearoom.
In Morwenstow there is also a very old church with associated cemetery. Looking at the number of graves, they have either been saving up for a long time, or Morwenstow used to be much bigger …

And again I come across a hut, a very small hut this time, Hawker’s Hut. This hut was made of driftwood by a local clergyman. And again to get inspiration for poems (or to smoke opium). I wonder which one it was…

Now I have to temporarily keep my mouth shut and my thoughts in check. I approach GCHQ Bude, a large eavesdropping station of the English government. Big Brother…

I meet Davey again, just before Duckpool. Here is a stall where they sell food and drinks. I buy a Raspberry Crush, nice and fresh.

The last part is relaxed again, not many height differences. The differences in height are gradual.

The last part goes trhough Bude. Here is a lot of activity, beach tourism and a fun fair. After crossing the river and the canal, I see my sleeping place for the night, the Brendon Arms, on the other side of the road.

I have climbed about 1150 meters today and descended them again also. Not too bad… except that almost all these meters went very steep up and down this time.
The advantage of steep slopes is that you are quickly up or down. That afterwards you need another half an hour to get your breath back, well …

Weather

Great walking weather today. The day started sunny, but then it got cloudy. The temperature was fine, about 20 °C. About 1 pm it looked like it would start to rain, but except for a few lost drops nothing came down. However, it remained very cloudy all day long. Only  just before Bude, the sun came through.

Rain had been forecast for about 4 pm. I arrived dry at 4:15 pm. Then I had a beer on the terrace, but before I finished it, it started to rain (at 4:50 pm). So I was lucky.

There was a lot of wind today, a wind to the sea. So I watched my step on the narrow paths along the cliffs.

Lyric of the day

Talking of Big Brother and the ever-increasing power of government agencies to spy on us, today a song by Muse, Uprising. Let’s hope it does not go that far …

Paranoia is in bloom,
The PR transmissions will resume
They’ll try to push drugs that keep us all dumbed down
And hope that we will never see the truth around
(so come on)

Another promise, another seed
Another packaged lie to keep us trapped in greed
And all the green belts wrapped around our minds
And endless red tape to keep the truth confined
(so come on)

They will not force us
They will stop degrading us
They will not control us
We will be victorious
(so come on)

Interchanging mind control
Come, let the revolution take its toll
If you could flick the switch and open your third eye
You’d see that we should never be afraid to die
(so come on)

Rise up and take the power back
It’s time the fat cats had a heart attack
You know that their time’s coming to an end
We have to unify and watch our flag ascend
(so come on)

They will not force us
They will stop degrading us
They will not control us
We will be victorious
(so come on)

Hey, hey, hey, hey
Hey, hey, hey, hey
Hey, hey, hey, hey

They will not force us
They will stop degrading us
They will not control us
We will be victorious
(so come on)

Hey, hey, hey, hey

Photos

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