Date: 20180516
Time: 9:00 – 18:00
Distance: 25.8 km
Stay: The Bottom Ship, Porlock Weir
Walk
The first walk of the South West Coast Path goes from Minehead to Porlock Weir. After a real English breakfast I start on time. But first Minehead in order to replenish the stocks (water and fruit bars).
Then back to the beginning of the path. Here I ask another hiker if he wants to take a picture of me and the sculpture. This is more or less obligatory when you walk the South West Coast Path 🙂
Then the walk really starts (although I have already walked more than 2 kilometers). I pass the Old Ship Aground and then head out of Minehead. The first part goes through the woods and immediately uphill, along the coast. After a while I can choose to make a small detour along Burgundy Chapel. Of course I do this and that results in a visit to the ruin of a chapel and then a very steep climb up to get back on the path.
Once back on the path, it goes up a little further to North Hill Viewpoint. Here I have a nice view. Just a pity that it is very cloudy.
A bit further I have to make a decision, I can take the easy inland route or the rugged version along the coast. Of course I go for the least easy option and opt for the Rugged Coast Path.
The Rugged Coast Path is a beautiful route that goes up and down the hills along the coast. I can often see far ahead against the next hill slope where I am going to walk (after I have first gone down and up again).
Eventually the Rugged Coast Path comes back together with the normal route. Almost immediately there is another possibility to make a detour to a viewpoint, Hurlstone Combe. Again I decide to take that route and after walking a bit over a wide path and then through a narrow path through the bushes, I arrive there. One has a nice view over Porlock and the coast from here.
At the top, I meet a Danish woman who is listening carefully. She makes recordings of the tides and is looking for the best point to do so. We chat for a while and after I walk a bit further to the rocky point, I go down through the bushes on a very steep path. The path is so narrow and overgrown that I regularly doubt whether there is a path at all. But every time a route shows as I continue.
Eventually I end up on the South West Coast Path again. The next part is a relaxed track along a small stream. At Bossington I cross the stream and it’s time for a break at the famous Kitnors Tearoom and Gardens. This is located in a very nice cottage, but very small inside. It is so small that the toilet is at the car park of the village.
Since this is a tea room, they have no beer. So that pint will have to wait until later. I adapt to my environment and order a cream tea with a fruit scone. Since I have no idea how to drink / eat that, it is good that there were no witnesses. I later looked into how you should behave with a cream tea and I think that any witnesses would have been shocked about the way I dealt with the scone, the jam, the cream and the tea 🙂
Because I am in Bossington well in time, I decide to do an extra walk inland to Allerford and Selworthy. This is also a very nice route with nice views on the hills in this area. Both villages are very small and picturesque with a number of nice cottages. In Selworthy I walk to the church with a very old cemetery. Most tombstones are hardly or not legible anymore.
Via another route I return to Bossington and pick up the Coast Path.
On the outskirts of Bossington, at Bossington Farm, I buy a bottle of natural apple juice at the side of the road. My water starts to run out and natural apple juice seems a nice replacement to me. It actually is and the next few miles I empty the bottle.
The next miles go through the Marsch, an area that regularly floods at high tides. This is actually a little boring. However, there are some impressive dead trees. Eventually I come all the way to the coast and there the path goes over stones. This is not nice walking and I am happy when I can go up to the road.
Just a little bit further along the road and I reach Porlock Weir. I’m looking for The Bottom Ship, but I only find The Ship Inn. This is however what I am looking for. The name confusion arose because Porlock and Porlock Weir both have a Ship Inn. Porlock Weir’s is called the Bottom Ship by everyone and Porlock’s the Top Ship.
After I have checked in (my bags are already in my room), it is time for a pint of IPA and then for a shower.
All in all a very successful first day on the South West Coast Path.
Weather
The weather was actually fine today. Although rain was predicted, only a few drops fell. Actually not worth mentioning. Because rain was predicted, I did put on my raincoat. That was very warm. In retrospect, I had better put on my light jacket.
It was pretty cloudy all day. As a result, little of the view was seen in various places (especially on (North Hill).
Lyric of the day
The lyrics of today are Solsbury Hill by Peter Gabriel. First because this is not too far from Minehead and second because I did some ‘climbing up’ today:
Climbing up on Solsbury Hill
I could see the city light
Wind was blowing, time stood still
Eagle flew out of the night
He was something to observe
Came in close, I heard a voice
Standing stretching every nerve
Had to listen had no choice
I did not believe the information
(I) just had to trust imagination
My heart going boom boom boom
“Son,” he said “Grab your things,
I’ve come to take you home.”
To keep in silence I resigned
My friends would think I was a nut
Turning water into wine
Open doors would soon be shut
So I went from day to day
Tho’ my life was in a rut
“Till I thought of what I’d say
Which connection I should cut
I was feeling part of the scenery
I walked right out of the machinery
My heart going boom boom boom
“Hey” he said “Grab your things
I’ve come to take you home.”
(Back home.)
When illusion spin her net
I’m never where I want to be
And liberty she pirouette
When I think that I am free
Watched by empty silhouettes
Who close their eyes but still can see
No one taught them etiquette
I will show another me
Today I don’t need a replacement
I’ll tell them what the smile on my face meant
My heart going boom boom boom
“Hey” I said “You can keep my things,
they’ve come to take me home.”
